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The Island Reef
- Thread starter PmRg
- Start date
Phil077
Registered
Update... the tank has been very stable, Kh is steady for more than 2months now... everything is growing well
Lastest fish added:
Anampses Meleagrides
Halichoeres Trispilus
And for now, here it is a FTS
See you all soon.
.
Happy Days. Tank looking great as always! Nice choice of wrasse there
PmRg
Registered
Hello everyone,
Another big update everything is stable and growing... last week I added 16 new frags to the system and also 2 CaribSea rocks to fill the scape a tiny bit more and add frags space hehe
Technical area is also developing well... I just need to finish some aesthetics details... add light tidy up the dosing tubing....
3 days ago changed the Vortech schedules to short pulse and expanded pulse... I have been noticing that is this modes the water movement is much higher and natural with less constant flow "hurting" the corals, let's see if this will work I'm also curious to see growth pattern.*
The Profilux 4 is getting better every update it gets, and this has given me a lot of peace of mind, loving it.
Ok time for some photos, first a updated FTS.
Now let's go macro.
.
Another big update
everything is stable and growing... last week I added 16 new frags to the system and also 2 CaribSea rocks to fill the scape a tiny bit more and add frags space heheTechnical area is also developing well... I just need to finish some aesthetics details... add light tidy up the dosing tubing....
3 days ago changed the Vortech schedules to short pulse and expanded pulse... I have been noticing that is this modes the water movement is much higher and natural with less constant flow "hurting" the corals, let's see if this will work I'm also curious to see growth pattern.*
The Profilux 4 is getting better every update it gets, and this has given me a lot of peace of mind, loving it.
Ok time for some photos, first a updated FTS.
Now let's go macro.
.
slash_halen
<span style="color:#088A4B">SPS Help & Advice
The tank is looking amazing mate, love the macros shots, very impressive.
Pedro
Just read the full thread and the tanks a credit to you. I love the quality of the coral shots is there any post processing and what settings are you using on the camera I always found it impossible to take good shots with the radions due to the level of the blue light. Is that a Pakachu coral if so what position and flow have you placed it. Again a great job will follow with interest.
Bill
Just read the full thread and the tanks a credit to you. I love the quality of the coral shots is there any post processing and what settings are you using on the camera I always found it impossible to take good shots with the radions due to the level of the blue light. Is that a Pakachu coral if so what position and flow have you placed it. Again a great job will follow with interest.
Bill
PmRg
Registered
Cheers dude
glad you guys appreciate it many thanks
always good to read Hey Bill,
thank you so much for your kind words
I use a Nikon D7100 full manual... Low ISO.. speed 100 F/6 it all depends on the situation.... the trick is to take the pictures in RAW and edited them one by one in Lightroom to adjust color otherwise all my pictures are BLUE lol
Yes this is a Pikatchu acorpora
middle of the tank.... strong flow.Pedro.
Pedro
I use a Nikon 7000 similar settings but i have not used RAW or lightroom i read in the earlier post it was a Sony which is rated not as good as the Nikon .Im looking for a full frame one and believe Nikon have a new model coming out or i might just look at the D810. I have a small frag of pikachu which i was thinking were to move it too as its just starting to colour but going to leave it for the minute.
Bill
I use a Nikon 7000 similar settings but i have not used RAW or lightroom i read in the earlier post it was a Sony which is rated not as good as the Nikon .Im looking for a full frame one and believe Nikon have a new model coming out or i might just look at the D810. I have a small frag of pikachu which i was thinking were to move it too as its just starting to colour but going to leave it for the minute.
Bill
PmRg
Registered
News...
During summer with the Core7 dosing raising I had a bit of salinity raise, so at the moment I got that sorted with the @GHL Profilux 4 to control a little pump that takes out 300ml of water per day, this maintains salinity very stable
Problems... I had a Sn (Tin) detectable in the water, I found this very strange since this happenend between 2 ICP tests 28days apart 4ugL showed up :/, next step was a water change and equipment verification... so I found an @aqua-Medic heater with a bit of rust on the top, I found this strange because it's a Titanium heater and rust!? from where!? well I emailed Aqua-Medic to find out what could it be, well the reply was that heaters that are more than 2years old the cap is not glued to the titanium so there is a screw inside that rusts... well I was p*ssed since I purchased this from Aqua-Medic I wanted quality and not silly things like a titanium heater with something that can rust unprotected doh... they said I could glue the cap with silicone and it would be OK.... well guess what to be on the safe side I purchased a new heater.
I'm almost finishing the amount of water changes adviced by Triton to remove the Sn and the corals are responding very well.
Another small issue is thtat I'm missing No3 again... so the plan is add fish fish fish lol let's see what I can arrange on thhe next week or two.
Finally some macros of some of the corals
.
During summer with the Core7 dosing raising I had a bit of salinity raise, so at the moment I got that sorted with the @GHL Profilux 4 to control a little pump that takes out 300ml of water per day, this maintains salinity very stable
Problems... I had a Sn (Tin) detectable in the water, I found this very strange since this happenend between 2 ICP tests 28days apart 4ugL showed up :/, next step was a water change and equipment verification... so I found an @aqua-Medic heater with a bit of rust on the top, I found this strange because it's a Titanium heater and rust!? from where!? well I emailed Aqua-Medic to find out what could it be, well the reply was that heaters that are more than 2years old the cap is not glued to the titanium so there is a screw inside that rusts... well I was p*ssed since I purchased this from Aqua-Medic I wanted quality and not silly things like a titanium heater with something that can rust unprotected doh... they said I could glue the cap with silicone and it would be OK.... well guess what to be on the safe side I purchased a new heater.
I'm almost finishing the amount of water changes adviced by Triton to remove the Sn and the corals are responding very well.
Another small issue is thtat I'm missing No3 again... so the plan is add fish fish fish lol let's see what I can arrange on thhe next week or two.
Finally some macros of some of the corals
.
steve861uk
Registered
Wow......just,......Wow
Is a thing of beauty to inspire us
Is a thing of beauty to inspire us
PmRg
Registered
thanks guys so here it is another "different" update
Techy News...
The Sump
This has been a slow build but finally it's almost ending I'd say it's about 90% done, I just need to hide the background with all the wireing and tubing, setup indirect lighting and a few more details...
Like you all know I'm following the Triton method and for that I did a triton sump by Seadreams.
Functionalities:
- Bubble Stopper on sump IN
- Filter sock section just in case I need to do heavy cleaning on the diplay I got the sock option
- Water goes into the refuge below the algae to maximize water to algae contact hence absorsion
- Core7 dosing goes over the filter sock section before the algae into very high flow
- Water exits the refuge by an adjustable weir in the front section of the refuge again to maximise water and algae contact
- Skimmer and return pump section has two supports for the heaters in the back wall of the section to maximise space
- 6 dosing tubes inlets for ATO, trace elements....
- Return pipe with a 20mm ball valve to feed a reactor if needed
- Probe holder for the Profilux probes
- Core7 deposits over the back of the sump to maximise space
- Custom made EcoTech Marine XR15 holder for the refuge
The GHL Doser 2.1 used for Core7 is installed as close as possible to the deposits and sump inlets to ensure less tubing is used hence less volume inside the tubing equals more precision.
All the dosing tubes used are 100% silicone, 2x4mm this is very thin tubes again to ensure less volume inside the dosing line to ensure more precision.
The right side of the sump area is reserved for the electric connections away from the water.
ATO is controlled by the Profilux with the GHL optical sensor.
High level alarm with a float switch, leakage alarm on the floor.
CCTV
Air Extractor to ensure air circulation inside the sump area.
I think this is all ahah
So here it is some photos of the sump area 90% DONE.
.
so here it is another "different" update Techy News...
The Sump
This has been a slow build but finally it's almost ending I'd say it's about 90% done, I just need to hide the background with all the wireing and tubing, setup indirect lighting and a few more details...
Like you all know I'm following the Triton method and for that I did a triton sump by Seadreams.
Functionalities:
- Bubble Stopper on sump IN
- Filter sock section just in case I need to do heavy cleaning on the diplay I got the sock option
- Water goes into the refuge below the algae to maximize water to algae contact hence absorsion
- Core7 dosing goes over the filter sock section before the algae into very high flow
- Water exits the refuge by an adjustable weir in the front section of the refuge again to maximise water and algae contact
- Skimmer and return pump section has two supports for the heaters in the back wall of the section to maximise space
- 6 dosing tubes inlets for ATO, trace elements....
- Return pipe with a 20mm ball valve to feed a reactor if needed
- Probe holder for the Profilux probes
- Core7 deposits over the back of the sump to maximise space
- Custom made EcoTech Marine XR15 holder for the refuge
The GHL Doser 2.1 used for Core7 is installed as close as possible to the deposits and sump inlets to ensure less tubing is used hence less volume inside the tubing equals more precision.
All the dosing tubes used are 100% silicone, 2x4mm this is very thin tubes again to ensure less volume inside the dosing line to ensure more precision.
The right side of the sump area is reserved for the electric connections away from the water.
ATO is controlled by the Profilux with the GHL optical sensor.
High level alarm with a float switch, leakage alarm on the floor.
CCTV
Air Extractor to ensure air circulation inside the sump area.
I think this is all ahah
So here it is some photos of the sump area 90% DONE.
.
steve861uk
Registered
Wow.......even your sump is a thing of beauty I feel ashamed of my system now
I feel ashamed of my system now 
