warby
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does it make sence what iv wrote? it does in my head but that's because I did it if you get me lol
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shark A80 led light review
- Thread starter warby
- Start date
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Scott
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Your issue was what i faced with mine.... some coral too much light like your nem others not enough like your zoa. Also to note is the PAR range of coral does not include red and green spectrum... that is there simply for our eyes and colour viewing and POP of the coral. If the coral require red and green usually warm white is more than enough for them to take what they need.
After a month i decided to shut down the shark over my sps tank, the intention is to have it over a seperate system for lps and zoanthid in the new year.
After i updated my thread the manufacturer informed me the light is only 120w comparable to the 170w on a g3pro radion.... but i was running the shark upto 75% and the rads to a max of around 50% to try and match output. Ok i didnt have an accurate par meter and as maxwell clearly stated with good advice is that calculation by sight and wattage would not give an accurate measurement of par levels.... this could be why my sps took a turn...
But after loosing a shed load of money and some rare pieces i have since put both rads back over my tank and the corals are seeming to recover well losing the brown and regaining (slowly) their colours.
Time will tell.
I really like the shark for lps and zoa, im still really impressed with lps and zoa growth rate.... but for now over sensitive sps like smoothskins millies and more sensitive acros im going to not take the risk again.
After a month i decided to shut down the shark over my sps tank, the intention is to have it over a seperate system for lps and zoanthid in the new year.
After i updated my thread the manufacturer informed me the light is only 120w comparable to the 170w on a g3pro radion.... but i was running the shark upto 75% and the rads to a max of around 50% to try and match output. Ok i didnt have an accurate par meter and as maxwell clearly stated with good advice is that calculation by sight and wattage would not give an accurate measurement of par levels.... this could be why my sps took a turn...
But after loosing a shed load of money and some rare pieces i have since put both rads back over my tank and the corals are seeming to recover well losing the brown and regaining (slowly) their colours.
Time will tell.
I really like the shark for lps and zoa, im still really impressed with lps and zoa growth rate.... but for now over sensitive sps like smoothskins millies and more sensitive acros im going to not take the risk again.
CEECH
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Yes it makes sense for sure. My Radion stayed on peak for a few hours before they ramped down also.
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Bluez_01
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Slightly off topic but related, my ATI T5 dimmable`s have a 10 step run program, and thinking that by setting them at say 30% at 10am and then 60% at 12pm and then down to 30% at 4pm this would give a nice curve, however after checking this at various times during this cycle it was extremely easy to see that indeed at 12pm the lights were at 60% but by 12:03pm they had come down to 58% so what I learned from this is the amount of time gap between the 2 settings dictated on how fast the drop off or ramp up was, adding in an "extra" step resolved this for me, so now the program runs like this: 30% 10am, 60% at 12pm, 50% at 3:55pm and 30% at 4pm, thus the drop off now is only 10% between 12pm and 3:55pm thus giving the corals more "peak" light for them 4 hours nearly.
You may be wondering why I only run at 60% max, and this really is plain and simple, if I go any higher (which I would love to do) it causes most of my corals to close down/start to bleech/strip, which again relates to the understanding that what light we can "see" is not always the best way to judge what the corals want/need, I will also go to the extent of saying only use a par meter as a "rough guide as well" as what is recommended for corals in par on many of fact sheets out there, is not 100% correct, after checking countless times on my par senseye meter, nothing in theory should be even alive at the low par levels they are getting, yet I am getting growth and good colours, also with the senseye the colour curve is IMHO a waste of time, when I was running leds I tested this curve to see if I could get near it, in truth having the meter right up against the different colour leds at 100% brightness I could never get some parts of the spectrum anywhere near what it would recommend (red/yellow/blue) knowing that running these colours at 100% would certainly bleech out the corals I stopped chasing the spectrum curve and just concentrated on getting the corals happy over a period of time with various changes.
I guess what I am trying to get at, is dont be too concerned about chasing the "perfect" colour/par numbers, instead use the corals as your guide, the corals (like in warbys case) can tell you if the light is right or not, even if we think its not right, let them tell you... Big Thumbs Up
You may be wondering why I only run at 60% max, and this really is plain and simple, if I go any higher (which I would love to do) it causes most of my corals to close down/start to bleech/strip, which again relates to the understanding that what light we can "see" is not always the best way to judge what the corals want/need, I will also go to the extent of saying only use a par meter as a "rough guide as well" as what is recommended for corals in par on many of fact sheets out there, is not 100% correct, after checking countless times on my par senseye meter, nothing in theory should be even alive at the low par levels they are getting, yet I am getting growth and good colours, also with the senseye the colour curve is IMHO a waste of time, when I was running leds I tested this curve to see if I could get near it, in truth having the meter right up against the different colour leds at 100% brightness I could never get some parts of the spectrum anywhere near what it would recommend (red/yellow/blue) knowing that running these colours at 100% would certainly bleech out the corals I stopped chasing the spectrum curve and just concentrated on getting the corals happy over a period of time with various changes.
I guess what I am trying to get at, is dont be too concerned about chasing the "perfect" colour/par numbers, instead use the corals as your guide, the corals (like in warbys case) can tell you if the light is right or not, even if we think its not right, let them tell you... Big Thumbs Up
warby
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it looks like my nem was still settling as it went down to the sand then disappeared for a few days and re appeared further up the rock but in the same area.
as for the high end sps I can't comment as iv not got any under it but the green digi seems to new doing ok however it's not as bright as the one under my evergrow unit but I guess time will tell and params may play a part with that as the small tank isn't as 'clean'
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as for the high end sps I can't comment as iv not got any under it but the green digi seems to new doing ok however it's not as bright as the one under my evergrow unit but I guess time will tell and params may play a part with that as the small tank isn't as 'clean'
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warby
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will be doing an update in the next few days providing I get chance. still impressed with it loads of growth on the zoas, mini maxi nem and green bubble tip but not so much on the green digi it's still green but no growth tips like the other one in my big tank params are pretty much the same.
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CEECH
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Sounds good buddy. Due to my crash mine has been at the marine store as i told Hinterfeld. All my lps and zoa have been under it and all are doing very well. I had my radion on them for first days until i got it setup but swapped over will no ileffect. also changed the settings like you had suggested and the zoa were not reaching for more light anymore. Personally i think this light is great for zoa and lps.
warby
Registered
time for another update. still impressed with the light unit although the zoas still seem to be slightly stretched or atleast some of them do. its growing th zoas well though new heads popping up all over. my green bubble tip appears to be doing well along with my mini maxi anemone. as for the green digi i put in there its still green but hasnt grown atall.
the lights peak at 100% on white blue uv and cob the red and green peak at 80% for 5 hours with ramp up and down either side.
for the price i cant really fault the unit for growing soft corals lps and anemones as for sps that remains to be seen over the coming months.
ill put up some pictures shortly and as you can see whaats in there is doing really well.
the lights peak at 100% on white blue uv and cob the red and green peak at 80% for 5 hours with ramp up and down either side.
for the price i cant really fault the unit for growing soft corals lps and anemones as for sps that remains to be seen over the coming months.
ill put up some pictures shortly and as you can see whaats in there is doing really well.
