Pearling On Live Rock

[damo666]

Couple of issues with my tank at present, tho neither impacting on fish or corals.
Had diatoms covering sand for a while, only take 24hrs to come back after siphoning off. I'm also aware as the topic indicates of pearling on my rock, tho no real sign of significant algal growth, although it's obviously there for the photosynthesis to be taking place. I'm gradually backing off my light intensity, more so blues, to try and help, currently at 30%. Here are tests just done:
Relevant parameters are PO4 0.25 NO3 5.
Now, I was surprised by the phosphate as I run Rowaphos in a reactor and was getting an undetectable reading.
So, obviously need to replace that, but is phosphate alone enough to cause this pearling and diatom problem. I've also changed things recently, tho post diatom problem. I pulled out 3 sponges from my first 2 sump chambers and replaced them with Alfa grog. Could this have caused a phosphate spike?? Thanks.

 

[Afonso]

Can't see your pics bud, is this a new set up? If it is diatoms is normal and they will stay for about a month or so.

What kind of rock did you use? How big is your set up?

Worried about your phosphate levels are they right?

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[damo666]

 

[damo666]

hi Alfonso.
Original tank set up January. Everything moved across to an Aqua one 300 ten weeks ago. 350 ltrs plus sump. All cured live rock originally. Yes, my phosphates surprised me as I haven't been detecting any, so going to get them checked in lfs just to be sure, tho using a new salifert kit so pretty confident the reading was correct. Just cleaned out my reactor and placed 300ml of phosguard in it. Guess I could be overfeeding now I have the blue throat trigger......he's getting lancefish or cockle 3-4 times a week, unfortunately cleaner shrimp are running off with the bits he doesn't get. Feed a cube of frozen per day sieved though fine mesh and rinsed before feeding, maybe that needs cutting back on?? stocking is as per signature. Thanks

 

[Afonso]

hi Alfonso.
Original tank set up January. Everything moved across to an Aqua one 300 ten weeks ago. 350 ltrs plus sump. All cured live rock originally. Yes, my phosphates surprised me as I haven't been detecting any, so going to get them checked in lfs just to be sure, tho using a new salifert kit so pretty confident the reading was correct. Just cleaned out my reactor and place 300ml of phosguard in it. Guess I could be overfeeding now I have the blue throat [email protected] getting lancefish or cockle 3-4 times a week, unfortunately cleaner shrimp are running off with the bits he doesn't get. Feed a cube of frozen per day sieved though fine mesh and rinsed before feeding, maybe that needs cutting back on?? stocking is as per signature. Thanks

Gorgeous fish [emoji226] maybe on my next upgrade always wanted to have one myself, it looks to me on the last 2 pics that you have red slime ( cyano bacteria) mixed in with diatoms, would you not agree? Normally results on over feeding


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[damo666]

Not familiar with cyano to be honest, so will have to read up on it. Guess best course of action short-term is cutting back on feeding, and maybe upping water changes, currently doing 50ltrs every 10 days. Incidentally, have checked r/o, nothing there.

 

[damo666]

Would like to get this sorted asap as I'm wanting to dabble in vodka dosing........I think lol.

 

[Afonso]

Not familiar with cyano to be honest, so will have to read up on it. Guess best course of action short-term is cutting back on feeding, and maybe upping water changes, currently doing 50ltrs every 10 days. Incidentally, have checked r/o, nothing there.

Probably best to have a google on it I had it in my nano due to over feeding in the end I end up using mycosidol from shop and got rid of it in a few days


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[damo666]

Will do, thanks

 

[shady]

I think everything has been covered.
The pearling is an algae of form photosynthesising, and this would of been caused by many symptoms but it looks like your tank has all symptoms at the same time.

1) Moving tanks - although previously cycled rocks , the new tank will still require a minimum of cycling
2) Over feeding - I have never had a big enough fish to warrant lancefish or cockles, let alone 3-4 times a week
3) Phosphate is very high, possibly due to all of these factors
4) Removal of sponges - although some will say "nitrate factories" if keep in good condition can be very beneficial, you took all yours out and replaced with alfa grog , so the bacteria will need time to colonate and settle again
5) Flow - did you add any powerheads when upgrading, Cyano on the gravel can be a sign of lack of flow and so if using the same powerheads for a smaller tank they wont have enough ummmph for a bigger tank ( don't put too much though because you may spoil the lovely torch coral )
6) Lighting - maybe too much , cut back whilst you get this under control and then if necessary slowly ramp them back up later

basically, cut down on feeding, lower lights, change phosphate remover , maybe up flow or at least "re-angle" flow and do water changes and it should die out on its own. Its basically cycling again but has everything in is favour to turn bad.

Slowly does it , a bit of maintenance and youll be back to where you want to be . I wouldn't go vodka dosing yet until this is all under control. Vodka dosing brings nitrate down and your nitrate is only 5 so I wouldn't worry.

 

[damo666]

Very informative post, thanks shady.
Let me discuss each point in turn.
1) Ok, was unaware that a full cycle would take place. I've read of all the possible implications of cycling but was in some ways fortunate not to experience them on my previous "basic" set up, on the flip side don't know signs of cycling first hand. I stripped down a fully planted discus tank at Xmas, a 190ltr trigon with eheim pro 350 external. Only thing I changed was lighting. No skimmer, lfs actually commented 3 months in my tank looked too clean. Never experienced any algal issues.
2) As above, very little experience so when I bought the triggerfish, went on the feeding regime advised by retailer. I'll stop that now. Triggerfish is a blue throat, about 4" long.
3)Last test I did, 2 weeks ago, showed an almost undetectable reading, tested again for this post and registered the phosphate spike.
4) The sponges, in 2 first chambers were purely mechanical. Washed in tap water weekly (to ensure no bacteria build up) then in r/o before going back. Actually decided this was overkill so just put 2" thick sponge below inlet to trap large particles. Then goes through Alfa grog now (2kg) before flowing over into chamber with 3" filter floss for fine particles, below is 6" denitrate with no space around it.
5) Aqua one wavemakers used to run 60% on previous tank. Now 100%, but yes, direction was adjusted for torch coral which was placed in the most sheltered spot I could find, did take an age to get it right. I observe mysis and that is definitely flowing over sand if I leave wave makers on when feeding. Not sure wether to move the torch elsewhere, currently in a focal point, and blast sand instead, so to speak. Believe torch won't like being bounced around too much.
6)Definitely agree lighting is a problem. New lighting was added, blues currently at 30%, white at 25%. Should I reduce intensity or photo period? Lights are Vipaspectra 165w x 2
Rowaphos was replaced by 300ml of Phosguard on Sunday. Feeding is easy to cut back. I did notice this morning that my skimmate was much lighter in colour than the almost black stuff I've been getting.
Incidentally, I feed corals weekly with soup made up of reefroids, phytoplankton, lobster eggs and rotifers, spot feeding.

 

[shady]

Quick run down ( I'm at work so should be working LOL )

1) a tank will have a new cycle from even just moving a rock, it will be minor but it will cycle , adding new rock or re-sculpting have the same effect. Nothing to do but be patient
2) a 4 inch trigger fish will also eat the other foods you put in as well as cockles and lance fish so I would cut back and use them as a treat once a week or so
3) Phosphate , probably form overfeeding - did you test just after adding food ??
4) Denitrate - never used it but instruction say flow should not exceed 200ltrs per hour ?? that's low flow , if all sump water is going through it might be too much
5) relocate the torch into my tank
6) Tank is getting used to new lighting so drop to minimal and raise gradually

Your reef soup sounds very rich ?? Personally I do not spot feed or even feed my corals , they get what ever is left over from the frozen food - I don't defrost or rinse but just throw in 6 small blocks of food daily ( I x Lipstick tang , 1 x goldflake hybrid, 1 x eibl angel, 1 x flame angel, 2 x clowns, 1 x mandarin, 1 x yellow wrasse, 1 x goby , )

 

[damo666]

Erm, I'll pass on the torch coral but appreciate your very kind offer lol.
Test was done prior to feeding.
Now, with the denitrate I have it in a 4" x 10" chamber, so in my mind the flow through each 2"x2" area, given it's 6" deep, should be relatively low.
Now, other than the aforementioned trigger, I must be UNDERFEEDING given your regime! I have a yellow tang, regal tang, 2 common clowns, 2 banggai, cleaner wrasse, scooter goby and a firefish. They get 1 cube a day, plus 2x weekly some seaweed in a clip for tangs, of which nothing goes to waste.
I'll break off from coral feeding as you suggest, and maybe up the frozen food a little?