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Nopox

Discussion in 'Help and Advice' started by damo666, Aug 27, 2018.

  1. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    I'll try and keep this short. Had a very nice tank full of mainly softies, huge area covered by large green polyps. Various red and green mushrooms, cabbages, leathers etc. Had an out break of cyano, got that under control 5 spot goby helped a lot I think. Then came the obsession with parameters the same one I had for a while with my discus. Was put onto Nopox by a mate who swears by it..... I do now but completely unsuitable language for here lol. Yes, nitrate levels nose dived, phosphate barely detectable, but softies suffered massively from water I was advised was now "too clean". OK, I can understand that. Cut back on it from 10ml daily in 350ltr, now at 1ml daily. Can Nopox be used in a background dosing regime so to speak, or, as I'm planning, managing levels more naturally using macro algae (tmc reactor ordered). Also happy to use rowaphos or phosguard again. Oh, whilst I'm discussing parameters, is it worth using a fluidised sand reactor.? Thanks for looking.
     
  2. Staypuft

    Staypuft Registered

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    I have tried NoPox and tbh it didn't work very well for me so I used vodka dosing instead (cost vs usefulness) with use of GFO for phosphate management - stopped using that as well; water clear, no yellowing and nitrate low but LPS unhappy. I think what you have been told about your water being too clean is accurate, particularly for softies, and possibly for LPS as they both 'like' a level of nutrients that is lowered substantially when you use products like NoPox or carbon source dosing (vodka/sugar/vinegar); it is easy to overdose and create an environment where these corals stop thriving.
    As you probably know cyano is a bacteria, but lowering nitrate and phosphate may not actually help reducing cyano - check other posts as this is a BIG subject :yawn:
    It really depends on your stocking strategy as to how you want to dose to achieve lower nitrate/phosphate levels but lowering the NoPox dosing will be a trial and error process to see where your levels are ok and the corals are happy . Your idea of macro algae has the added benefit of you being able to harvest the algae and feed to the tangs - I do this and it does slowly reduce the No3/Po4 while feeding the tangs good stuff. I would avoid combining dosing and macro algae as the bacteria and the algae will compete for the same nutrients and the algae usually loses!
    Not sure about a fluidised sand reactor - as with all tank related hardware, you hear both good and bad reports and I try to keep everything simple for maintenance's sake, so have not used one.
     
    doug_amanda likes this.
  3. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for the reply. Probably shouldn't have thrown in the comment regarding cyano, was just giving a quick overview of the tank diary so to speak, been set up 11 months. Yes, I became aware of what cyano is once I actually identified it correctly.
    So, back to the key question, and I'll simplify it, hopefully lol. Do I go back to where I was when my tank was thriving, albeit nitrate and phosphate levels where high. Do I drop right back with the Nopox dosing in an attempt to make my tank softie friendly again, or drop it all together and target the nitrate and phosphate pro-actively if they begin to move outside what I'm aiming for? Hence using the algae reactor, mainly to free up space in sump and leave room for another reactor pump for rowaphos or similar. To be honest I don't have a clue what is a "good" level of nitrate is, phosphate I'm aiming for 0.03, and am realising from reading that they have to be in sync with each other to maintain a balance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2018
  4. Staypuft

    Staypuft Registered

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    There are a lot of target figures that people suggest for PO4 and NO3. What were your figures before dosing? At the risk of being shouted down, in your tank, phosphate of below 0.05 and nitrate below 20 should work but consider that higher nitrate can stress fish too. The ratio between NO3 and PO4 is the Redfield ratio fwiw and Randy Holmes-Farley is a well respected author of detailed info on this subject. Suggest lowering or removing dose of NoPox slowly and bring your algae reactor online then test regularly. I’d also suggest not getting to hung up on the figures and enjoy your tank, watching for changes - the adage of bad things happen quickly and good happen slowly is very true.
     
  5. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
    Last time of testing nitrates were 25, phosphate 0.03. What is concerning me more and for a while now is the Kh take up without me correcting it. I'm using red sea coral pro which is mixing up at 11. Within 5 days I'm dropping to 7.5. Now I'm not sure if using a salt with a lower initial Kh will reduce this swing, or whether it will mean I'm more prone to a bigger drop, or corals suffering.i have dosers for my upgrade and I'm trying to average out the Kh uptake to get a dose that will help stability. I have now stopped Nopox completely and have added a small colony of mushrooms to see how they get on now that I have "dirtier" water.
     
  6. Staypuft

    Staypuft Registered

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    Your phosphate and nitrate seems ok. Your kH seems ok too tbh - mine stays around 7 normally and I have a lot of SPS in my tank. What salinity do you run your tank at normally?
     
  7. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    I generally run at 1.025
     
  8. Staypuft

    Staypuft Registered

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    That would be ok. Ph and calcium may also be part of your KH problem, I’ve had that before when they’re out of balance.
    I would think that you’ll find the algae will help your nutrient levels.
    A couple of other assists could be a higher Mg level, over 1400, and you may find that lugols/iodine supplements may help your corals - be careful with iodine dosing, if you don’t already know the pitfalls of that additive
     
  9. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for the feedback. Yes to the iodine issue. Have had a bottle of Seachem iodine sat in cupboard for over 12 months I was told then without experience it was not worth taking the risk of starting it's use. I've asked this question before, but without trolling the Internet/forums, is there a good book that outlines the basics of water chemisty and the interaction/relationship between the various elements making up good overall parameters for a reef tank?
     
  10. doug_amanda

    doug_amanda Admin Staff Member

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  11. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for all your feedback and advice
     
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