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Featured Juwel Trigon 190 and Marine tank setup.

Discussion in 'Help and Advice' started by FmJames, Feb 22, 2010.

  1. FmJames

    FmJames Fish Health Advisor

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    Hi everyone

    I am new here and new to keeping marine fish, so i thought i should ask before i did something really silly.

    Have finally decided to get a marine tank setup and the juwel trigon 190 fits the corner perfectly so that is the easy part and onto the hard part.

    Have read a bit about setting up a marine tank but i don't quite understand a few things, firstly i should mention the fish i have chosen.

    Coral beuaty angel fish x1
    Bicolour angel fish x1
    Clarkii clownfish x2
    True percula clownfish x2(not sure about this, they might not get along with the other pair)
    Saddle back butterfly fish x1(not sure again, maybe too small tank)
    Green mandarine x1
    Yellow Tang x1(again tank might be too small)


    15kg of live rock(more needed?????)
    live sand(although i don't know what this is, just seen it recommended somewhere)

    now i dont have a clue how to pick coral, not sure which species is best or if they live well together and so on....but had this in mind

    red mushroom
    toadstool leather coral
    assorted colony polyps
    yellow polyp

    any recommendation here would be welcome too.

    OK to the really hard part...as i mention i am getting a juwel trigon 190
    but not really sure on filters, lights, protein skimmers and so on...

    I know i need the following

    Protein skimmer (not sure on brand, make..)
    UV steriliser
    Possible new filter because the standard one with the juwel are not good enough??
    Test kits?
    New lights as the supplied are not good enough?
    Something to measure the salinity of the water?

    To make sea salt water, i just buy sea salt mix and add to normal water, corect???
    any specific sea salt mix?
    How often do i change the water? I Have read various amounts for tank sized of 200L, so a little confused.

    sorry i know its a lot of questions here and a lot of guesstimates, just been confused by all the guides i have been reading lately.

    any help would be much appreciated and just give an idea of what i am aiming for is

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2v9wfdx8lEM

    IF, IF I EVER manage to set this up, i will make sure to take a few pictures and post here.

    thanks :)
     
  2. Turner

    Turner Registered

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    hi FM.

    I am also new to this, but this site is very good at finding out everything you need [thumbup1.gif]

    i have a fluval 260 ltrs tank and i have been told that you are better off with 1 kilo of rock for every 10ltrs of water. so more rock the better i do believe, i have around 39 kilos of rock in mine.

    good look in finding out all you answers to your questions :-o
     
  3. rabbut

    rabbut Registered

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    Hello and :-o

    OK, onto the questions...

    The Bi-colour and Coral Beauty angel with probably fight. I'd suggest choosing one or the other. Both could potentially nip at corals, but the CB is the safer bet of the two. You are right in thinking the Clarki's and Perc's won't mix in a tank of that size too, the Clarki's will likely hammer the Perc's. As a "rule of thumb" different Clownfish species don't like each other. In large tanks you can get away with it, but 190l isn't in the large category I'm afraid [sad.gif] A Trigon 190 is a bit crampt for a Yellow tang also. Many do keep them in tanks of that size long-term, but many will also argue it's too small. What I would point out is that they get 6"+, and are quite active. It's up to you as to if you add it or not, but I wouldn't put one in anything smaller than a 4X2X2 foot tank - or about 400l [thumbup1.gif]

    Mandarins can be tricky feeders. I'd suggest you wait until your tank has matured before adding one, and you'd also need to supplement their feeding in a tank of that size. For this reason, it will be far easier for you to get one that is definitely taking frozen or prepared foods at the shop (as in ask to see it feed at the shop, then watch to check it is).

    I'd be looking at about 19KG of rock in that sized tank [027.gif] 15KG is fine if your packing it out with corals though.

    Argonite or Crushed Coral Sand will do the job of live sand just as well, but at a fraction of the price. [wink.gif]

    You've chosen easy to keep corals there, which don't need any special attention or any large amount of light. This means the standard T5 lights are perfectly fine for what you are using the tank for. I wouldn't ever run a UV at home personally. I find people just use them to mask poor husbandry skills. Good care for the fish will keep them healthy, and doesn't require a light inside a box to waste electricity 24h a day. For protein skimmers, take a look at Deltec MCE300's [thumbup1.gif]

    Test kits, well... I'd get a liquid drop type test kit for the following

    Ammonia
    Nitrite
    Nitrate
    pH
    Phosphate

    with what you want to keep. Salifert is the brand of choice for most, bar the Phosphate where D&D is considered better. Being a Yorkshire reefer though, I stick to Salifert for Phosphate - the D&D is a good £20-£30 more than Salifert [001.gif] For testing the salinity, and cheap Refractometer will do. The swing-arm Hydrometers have a habit of drifting and causing tank crashes. [002.gif]

    Salt, well, any sea or reef mix will work for what you are keeping. Reef blends will be better, but you probably won't notice a great difference with soft corals TBH. However, as your keeping corals, you will want to use RO over "normal" water. It's been filtered to make it nearly pure, hence removing the stuff in tap water (Copper, pesticides, Phosphates, Nitrates e.t.c) that aren't good for your tank. You can buy it from a shop, but my preference would be to make my own with your own RO unit [thumbup1.gif]

    Finally, water changes. I'd look at doing 10-25% weekly to start with. Take things from there, based on the test kit results. Nitrates above 10, or detectable Phosphates suggest more regular or larger water changes are needed (assuming none is put in by your salt mix). If neither is going up, you can back-off the water changes a bit [027.gif]
     
  4. dreamreef

    dreamreef Registered

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    Alot of good advice given there, you will soon pick it up, just keep reading up and asking questions.
    It will all become easier. Good luck
     
  5. Turner

    Turner Registered

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    nice info rabbut. learning alot of you [thumbup.gif]
     
  6. Kev

    Kev Registered

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    :-o to tsb.
     
  7. jez roberts

    jez roberts Registered

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    Hi FMJames,

    I've had my Trigon 190 for around 2 years now and have a few suggestions for you.

    Firstly, remove the built in filtler/heater unit from the back corner of the tank, this will free up lots of space and allow you to use that corner for external filter inlet/outlet pipes. I run mine with 2x external filters which help with water flow as well as fitration.

    As for lighting, the T5's that come with the Trigon are fine for the types of corals you are looking at, however, it is better to raise the corals as close as possible to the lights to help them grow faster as the T5's arent the best.
    One of the ways of helping with the lights would be to do what i'm looking at, if you buy 2x Aquabeam 500 LED's and place them either side of the T5's that will give you the water penitration to keep your corals lower in the tank and introduct another colour spectrum to it.
    I have a Marine T5 and a Marine blue T5 at the moment but am upgrading with the Aquabeams soon.

    In such a small (yes, i was suprised this is regarded as a small tank too) I would only keep 1 angel and completely forget the yellow Tang, I lost a Yellow Tang after a few months due to stress and it is quite an expensive fish to lose!
    If you really want a yellow tang i would suggest getting a lemonpeal Angel as they are the same colour but a hell of a lot less risky to keep.
    Forget the Butterfly,it might eat your coral.
    Manderin's are great but watch the amount of Carbon that you put in the filter media as they are prone to a nasty desease called "hole in the Head" which does exactly what it says on the tin. nasty!! apart from that they are great fish.

    dont mix the clownfish as the tank is too small for them to avoid eachother.

    i hope this helps a little, let me know if you have any questions.
     
  8. Ding Dang Doo

    Ding Dang Doo Registered

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    Welcome to TSB!

    Hope you've managed to get everything set up and all is going well.

    Some great advise there from the above posts.

    Please keep us upto date with your progress... and don't forget, if you have any problems or questions, make sure you post them up here, we all want to help you have as trouble free a start in marines as possible. [027.gif]

    ATB
     
  9. FmJames

    FmJames Fish Health Advisor

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    Gents

    I just wanted to say a big thank you for all your advice and help, i really appreciate it. Also sorry for the late reply, unfortunately i have been so busy these last two
    weeks that i have not had much time to spend on fishes.

    I received the juwel trigon 190 yesterday, oh my did i have a HARD time fitting it through the front door, manged to setup just the tank and cabinet yesterday. Lovely looking tank.
    I would of loved to buy the 350 but i would of have to airlift it through the roof [011.gif]

    Ok gents, a few more question if you don't mind,

    I need R0 unit, its the sensible thing to do i think, otherwise i would have to buy water once a week and that could get expensive over time.
    I have looked at R0 units costing about £100, specifically these two

    http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=33

    http://www.warehouse-aquatics.co.uk/ind ... 3145&cid=1

    I don't really have a budget but i would prefer to spend about £100-150(the cheaper the better), and does the number of stages matter??. This whole marine adventure is getting rather expensive.

    I also need a TDS meter i believe, looking at the below product unless you can recommend something more appropriate(if i have picked wrong that is)

    http://www.warehouse-aquatics.co.uk/ind ... 4978&cid=1

    what kind of water purity level am i looking for a marine setup? I don't believe 100% purity is ever possible!

    Is it safe to store the water in food safe containers for few weeks at a time?

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have deiced to get 20KG of Fiji live marine rock(not bought yet, very expensive), and have purchased 30KG Caribsea Live Aragonite Reef Sand(hope its correct type sand, as 10kg came free with the tank, so decided to get more)

    I want to order a Deltec MCE300 and the RO unit together.

    now i am not sure what to do about this juwel filter, reading through some comments here and on the forum, i should remove it and if so replace with what?
    Or should i just leave it and compliment it with another external filter?
    Some posts seem to suggest changing the filter media with

    granulated carbon
    rowaphos
    and if you want polyfilter

    don't have a clue what to purchase as there seem to be a few types available for each!

    any advice is appreciated

    do i really need a powerhead? if so could someone recommend me one please otherwise i am going for something like

    http://www.forpets.co.uk/product.php?xProd=1023

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Thanks for that,

    I am going to replace one of the T5 that came with the trigon with a marine blue T5 but not sure what power output i want though? <- ok just found out that max 28w only with the length of trigon 190 tube fitting.

    Would it be ok to use this light setup for a few months and then change/supplement the lights later on?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    ok just wanted to make sure the procedure i have is correct....

    Fill tank with the Sand,
    make R0 water, test it for purity then add marine salt.
    place 20kg Fiji rock in the tank,
    use test kit for testing water once every 2 days, nitrite ect....
    wait 4-6 weeks for nitrite, ect level to fall to zero or close to before admitting fish

    Does the live rock require any supplements and food?? cant see any indication that they do,though i should ask anyhow.

    do i need the filter and protein filter to be on during this 6 weeks period?

    shall I add the coral first and then wait a few weeks then add fish or can i add both together, getting conflicting advice here.

    any tips, advice and so on would be again appreciated.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    sorry for so many questions again, and thank you all for your help and advice

    I am taking this really slowly, don't want to mess up.

    cheers guys [thumbup1.gif]
     
  10. Hazey

    Hazey Registered

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    Hi & welcome to TSB.

    Personally I would opt for the Deltec ME600 as oppose to the 300. I have had both, 1st off I got the 600 but it was too noisy so went for the 30 brand new....good skimmer, pain in the backside to clean so went for another 600 & it skimms miles better than the 300, stil using the MCE600 today.

    Stick to the one type of clown, prob better with Percs or Ocellaris as Clarkis can be aggressive.been there done that got the T-shirt.....
    Get yourself a Refractometer to test the SG of your water.
    My TDS on my RO unit reads 70 in & zero out. I went for an RO unit with a DI resin to polish of the water even more.
    Best way is to keep asking those Q's [thumbup1.gif]

    Dave
     
  11. dirtyhabit

    dirtyhabit Registered

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    if you are using live sand, best not to put it in the tank until the salt is mixed in.
     
  12. rabbut

    rabbut Registered

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    Plenty of questions = good [027.gif]

    For RO units, I'd probably get the D&D kit. The other boosted unit is very cheap considering it's 5 stage and boosted. Makes me question the quality of the filters [023.gif] It might be aright, but you don't know until you've parted with £100, and it's too late then [sad.gif]

    Before you look at getting an RO unit, I'd suggest you take a look at the thread below to ensure you get all the kit with it your need

    viewtopic.php?f=83&t=5803

    Toby on here (LittleOcean) also does Osmotics units, which is the brand I use. He will also do a discount for use members, so it might be worth dropping him a PM to see what he can do for you [thumbup.gif]

    I'd personally rip out the Juwel filter, but you can use it as you say. Any good quality carbon is fine to use - I use New Era, and Rowaphos is a specific brand out there. Being a Yorkshire man, I'm a cheapscate with Phosphate remover, and usually use Fluval clearmax. OK, it only lasts half as long, but it's a third of the price [010.gif]


    In a work, yes, you need powerheads for the flow [027.gif] The Juwel pumps are no good for what you are going to be using the pumps for though, they have no guards to stop stock getting into the workings and being minced. I'd probably go with either 2-3 Tunze Nanostream 6025's, or 2-3 Hydor Koralia 2's. They give a good strong and broad flow that's better suited to this application [wink.gif]


    Thanks for that,

    I am going to replace one of the T5 that came with the trigon with a marine blue T5 but not sure what power output i want though? <- ok just found out that max 28w only with the length of trigon 190 tube fitting.

    Would it be ok to use this light setup for a few months and then change/supplement the lights later on? [/quote:2gfg88m4]

    Indeed that would be fine to do for most Fish Only set-up's. Two T5's will maintain most Soft corals, and if both are White lamps, you may even get some large polyped stony corals under them. If that meant nothing to you, take a look at the Soft Coral and LPS sections in the care and information database [001_smile.gif]


    [/quote:2gfg88m4]

    I would run the filter and skimmer from the instant you've done the initial set-up. While you don't have to do that, it's best practice to [027.gif]

    I usually add the fish and corals at the same time, gradually, over many months. Some fish and corals need a really mature tank, others can go strait in after set-up [001_smile.gif]
     
  13. jez roberts

    jez roberts Registered

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    Hi fmJames

    going back to the lighting, yes it will be fine to run just the T5 lighting for a few months, I ran mine for 2 years!
    I had mine running with a Marine white in the front and a Marine Blue at the back. Get some reflectors though as they make so much difference to the lighting of the tank.
    Next month i'm adding the Aquabeams so i'll let you know how i get on.
     
  14. dmgolubovas

    dmgolubovas Registered

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    Hi there,
    This is my first post!!!!
    I have kept freshwater fish in my Trigon 190 for the past 10 years and have decided to switch to a marine set up. Am being completely baffled with everything i am reading elsewhere but after reading this thread am feeling much better. Thank you to everyone.

    Would like to hear how your going with your tank set up and what skimmers, powerheads etc you have opted for.
    I am sure i will have just as many questions when i am ready to go!! am looking at an external filter with a built in skimmer that will fit in the cabinet below as its a corner unit and an external skimmer would be awkward to fit?! or have you found one that does not mean the tank needs to be a foot away from the wall?!!
     
  15. FmJames

    FmJames Fish Health Advisor

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    Hi everyone

    Sorry for the absence, have not got rid of me yet, just been really busy and buying everything that i need for the tank slowly.
    Unfortunately i will not be setting up till about middle of may. Just have too much to do and don't want to setup a tank and not have much time to attend to it.

    @rabbut

    Once again thank you for your reply and help, much much appreciated.

    **UPDATE SO FAR***

    I got a D-D RO unit(only 3 stage i think), 125 Gallon (got a very good price,)
    D-D TDS meter
    1X Marine blue Juwel T5 light
    2x Juwel light reflectors
    D-D Refractometer
    Fluval 405 external canister filter, i hope this is a good filter not sure what to do with the media yet or what to replace yet or how much of it i will need. It fits nicely into the cupboard.

    Deltec MCE 300 protein skimmer, wanted the 600 but needed something small as possible tbh. I think in the future i will upgrade to a proper external deltec skimmer not this hang on stuff or buy a 600 and place in into a small sump.

    1xHydor Koralia 2 2300lph wanted to buy 2 to but was out of stock and now thinking of getting 2x3200Lph or 2x4600Lph instead. Neither do I want tornado in the tank, any suggestions? Might try what i have and see how it goes and then decide then.

    30KG of fiji live rock, decided to upgrade from the 14kg to 30kg, hope its not too much. Have not bought yet (my next big purchase)so if anyone has any suggestion to a good supplier and cheap please, do let me know please.

    For salt i have decided to get either Coral Pro Red Sea Salt or Red Sea Coral Reef Salt, not sure what the difference between them is yet or why the price difference???


    @jez roberts

    That would be great if you could let me know how you get on.
    I have been having problems with lights tbh, I need to keep the lid on the tank(because it is in the hallway) so went and looked at another pair of juwel trigon T5 lights but there is no room in the tank for them.
    I am not sure if the Aquabeams will fit into the lid. If you would let me know your solution and how you plan to attack them to the lid i would highly appreciate it.
    I am assuming that 2xT5 28W and 2X Aquabeams would be enough to keep most corals?
    Metal Halide are a NO NO for me, they would melt the lid and light up the whole house.

    @dmgolubovas

    Hi there
    Just like you I am new here and have had to do a lot of reading about this stuff and ask losts of annoying question and because of the kindness of these fine gents on here I have come a long way. Had a lot of misconception about marine fish before and they are all gone. I am a novice still but i will be keeping a log of everything that i do and will post here in due time. Not planning to set up until mid may tbh, just don't have time right now.

    I will take picture and will let you know how i am getting along. One thing is for sure, its getting very expensive, just a shame that all this effort is for a 200L tank and not 400L but don't have neither the space or experience for larger tank setup but i Will upgrade in a few years time.

    I can tell you that the delted MCE 300 is not too deep, since i was very sensitive to this, otherwise i would of had to move the tank and it would of protruded into the living room doorway. I will take picture and measurements for you in due time if you like.

    If i am not wrong, i only had to pull the tank away from the wall 12-13cm where the protein skimmer is to make a comfortable fit.

    Hope that is some help at least.

    thank again everyone,

    regards

    FMJames
     
  16. rabbut

    rabbut Registered

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    Hello again, long time no post [001_smile.gif]

    The Fluval canister isn't the best out there, but it will do what it says on the box, how it says on the box, for as long as it says on the box [wink.gif] I'd keep the carbon, but none of the other medias. In place of the ceramics, I'd use Phosphate remover, and I'd use floss in the place of the pre-sponges [thumbup1.gif]

    I'd probably get another pump in there TBH. IMO, more flow is good, unless it's pinning the stock to the tank walls. In a tank of your size, even the 2 4600lph pumps won't do that with the type of pumps your using. There are a few exceptions to that statement, but for the most part, more flow than the recommended will be fine [001_smile.gif] If you can't get a second Koralia 2, a K3 would be fine for the second pump [027.gif]

    30KG is a lot of rock for that size of tank. While that isn't necessarily a bad thing, you will need a lot of flow with that much rock to prevent dead spots - areas of low flow in which debris collects and rots. I'd be looking at 20KG if possible [001_smile.gif] www.live-rock.co.uk is one on-line supplier that is supposed to do good stuff, but I've not used them personally. You could also keep an eye out for a local reefer breaking down their tank, that is a cheap way to get good LR.

    I'm also none too sure what the exact difference between the two salts of your choice are. I imagine the more expensive one will be more enriched with Calcium, Carbonate salts and Magnesium, and aimed more at hard coral keepers.

    2 T5's will be pushing it for SPS corals, but LPS and softies will be fine with the lighting you have planned. Higher light LPS would do best higher up, and it would be a good idea to have both T5's as white tubes if you keep LPS, utilising the Aquarays to improve coral colour. [001_smile.gif]

    HTH
     
  17. FmJames

    FmJames Fish Health Advisor

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    Hi rabbut

    Thank again for your advice, just a few things am not sure about now.

    Do you mean i should replace all the sponges with Interpet Polymer Wool or Tetratec Filter Floss Ff600 700, are these correct type? I Presume these are washable or should i replace them on a weekly/monthly basis??

    The fluval has 8 small compartments for media, if i keep 2 of these for carbon then that leaves 6 spaces for phosphate remover, would that not be excessive? and how often do i have to change the carbon and phosphate remover(i forgot about buying these lol)

    Do you think i should send the fluval back if its not good? I have opened it but not used it and if yes what should i buy instead?

    If i do decide to keep it, how often should i be cleaning the filter? once a week any good?

    Ok will take you word on this and settle for ~20kg, I have found a place that sells uncured rock for £184 for 22KG and the website you recommend is selling 20KG cured live rock for £177, so should i get cured or uncured?
    I am presuming I can just bung the cured rock in straight away and add fish a few days later where with the uncured i have to cycle for 4-6 week.
    If I don't have to cycle for 4-6 weeks i might start the aquarium much sooner than anticipated :)))

    OK just to make sure i got this right, I should use 2xT5 white and 1 Aquabeam marine blue and 1 Aquabeam marine white?

    These SPS corals are very demanding!

    look like I bought T5 marine blue for nothing [oops.gif]

    one last question, do I leave the lights, filters, poweheads and protein skimmer on 24 hours a day 7 day a week?
    Common sense is telling me i can turn light off at night but everything else stay on.

    once agian thank you for you help.
     
  18. rabbut

    rabbut Registered

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    It's up to you if you keep the Fluval or not. Many use and like them. I've had a bad run with them personally, and a few other people I know have also. [023.gif] A jokey saying on a FW forum I used to use started going round, saying Fluval send the Quality Control failure units to Leeds and London, as it's people in these areas that seem to have the most trouble with them [001_huh.gif] [005.gif] Anyhow, if you do opt to change to another filter, I'd recommend Rena, Tetratec or the Eheim Pro/Classic range. If it's your first external, the Eheim Classics possible aren't for you as they aren't as user friendly as other modern canisters, but they are good bomb-proof filters non the less that will clock up years of faultless service [001_smile.gif]

    Assuming you keep the Fluval;

    Yes, replace your sponges with the floss. The Floss you mentioned would be suitable, but I would be using Pond Filter Floss, as it's cheaper [001_rolleyes.gif] Have a look HERE for an example

    I'd probably have Carbon in the bottom two trays and Phosphate remover in the top two. This should make for 4 of each media [thumbup1.gif] you could probably change the carbon half as often as recommended as you'd then have twice the amount [wink.gif] the Phosphate remover would want changing whenever algae growth or Phosphate readings starting going up again.

    Floss can be cleaned. I just ring it out well under the tap and re-use until the sheet literally falls apart...

    Weekly cleans of any filter in a marine tank is best [thumbup1.gif]

    With Live Rock bought over the internet, you'll always see a cycle. Cured rock will need a shorter cycle time though than un-cured stuff. Which one you use is up to you, but either way I usually recommend waiting at least a month after the addition of rock before you start to stock the tank [027.gif]

    Indeed I'd use two Marine White T5 lamps and then the Aquarays you mentioned for the lighting. I'd consider two blue Aquarays though over the reef whites, but that really is down to how much blue light you want in your tank [001_smile.gif]

    Everything but the lights are indeed best off ran all the time if possible. I'd keep the lights on timer to keep the time they are on each day constant and consistent. For a new tank, I'd go with 6 hours of white light, with say half an hour either side extra for blue light. This will keep the algae growth down until your get your Clean Up Crew in. After CUC go in, you can start to increase the time the lights are on for if you like. 8 hours is a common time for the whites to be on, I run mine for 12 hours [029.gif]
     
  19. FmJames

    FmJames Fish Health Advisor

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    Hi everyone

    I am back, hope you have not forgotten me.

    Finally got some free time to spend on the fish tank and have now started to assemble everything. Have purchased all equipment except the rock.

    Currently making R0 water for the tank, installed the unit last week but have only now got round to using it to produce water.

    But i have a problem, the TDS meter is saying 15-17ppm. Currently been purging the system for about 3 hours.

    Normal tap water is giving me 375ppm and R0 is 15ppm.

    so my questing is that 17ppm acceptable level for marine setup and if not what can i do to rectify the situation?

    thanks rabbut for your advice :)

    thanks guys [003.gif]
     
  20. nivarp

    nivarp Registered

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    Ideally you want 0 TDS. By Purging do you mean flushing? If its new you will need to flush for at least 2 hours as far as I am aware and then switch it to use mode and leave it for another 30 mins before you start using that ro water. This is all of course with the DI pod disconnected if you have one, then reconnect it once you start using it, otherwise you will just waste the resin. What unit have you got as I couldn't see it reading thru your thread?

    EDIT: I must be blind and saw that you got a D-D RO unit. If its a 3 stage unit then I presume you won't have a di pod so you don't need to worry about that. My TDS after the membrane is 8 and then the di pod takes it down to 0. 17ppm isn't ideal I guess but its way loads better then the 375ppm which seems quite high for tap water (mines 220ppm atm, it did go upto 280ppm the other day). I think the limit for human consumption is 500ppm. Not sure what you can do to get it lower but I'm sure some someone else will be able too!
     
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