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Featured green button polyp

Discussion in 'Help and Advice' started by damo666, Jun 11, 2017.

  1. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Decided to add my first softie, went for a nice group of button polyps, about 40 mixed size. Drip acclimatized them, seemed happy for the first couple of days, put in last Tuesday. Seeing very few of them open now and those that are seem to be folding their edges downwards. Have tried doing some reading but as ever gets mind boggling with so much conflicting guidelines.
    So a couple of questions regarding location.
    1. High or low in an 18" deep aquarium
    2. In good flow or do they prefer slightly more settled
    3. Feeding........phytoplankton v spot feeding brine/mysis "soup"

    On the subject of flow, in my corner tank I have a surface return from the external pointing across to the centre of the front glass. Then the wave makers are in each front top corner aiming downwards at the front glass to create bounce back through the rock. Do you think its worth aiming one more towards the back from the front glass to create circular flow or stick with the "swaying" action I have now? Thanks
     
  2. Phil077

    Phil077 Registered

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    I Have 3 colony of those zoas upwards of 100+ on each rock. no feeding. mid to bottom of my tank
     
  3. 372xp

    372xp Registered

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    Medium light and medium flow, they will tolerate low levels of light. 3 possibilities, water too rich, too lean or they are being predated upon. They can handle relatively poor water conditions better than extremely lean (0 nutrients) conditions. Nudibranch attacks are quite common give them a fresh water rinse and see what comes off. A few years ago I had a similar problem with them, and whilst I was at work my wife ran them under the kitchen tap ( I am not recommending this exact approach) and they are still going strong today!
     
  4. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for the reply's. Well here's another story, us amateurs. My lad kinda owed me a coral, he wanted to buy me my first one for Xmas, tank wasn't ready. So, yesterday he arrived with what I understand are mushrooms, very green about 40mm across x 5 on a nice rock. Was spot feeding coco worm and dusters with the weekly phytoplankton, some drifted over them. I think they were not impressed as quickly "shrank" exposing a with mouth? Still curled up now 2 hrs later. Any thoughts?? Thanks
     
  5. Phil077

    Phil077 Registered

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    Early days. see if you can find a sweet spot for them.
    The green palys I Have are bullet proof nothing seems to phase them. patience! :)
     
  6. 372xp

    372xp Registered

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    Dude mushrooms zoanthids parazoanthids etc don't need feeding. Fish poop is more than enough + light. They live in tidal/lagoon areas and the tide provides. They just filter out the bits they want.
     
  7. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks guys
     
  8. CEECH

    CEECH Registered

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    As said button polyps are tough as hell. They dont like clean water as much and prefer some phos and n03 in the tank. I could not kill these before when i tried to rid my tank. I like zoa but remember some button polyps can overtake a tank easily. Also be aware these can be more toxic than some zoa so if you are handling them watch for spiting and make sure if you are not wearing gloves you have no cuts on your hands.
     
  9. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Toxic......interesting. Appreciate the heads up
     
  10. CEECH

    CEECH Registered

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    All zoa and palythoa are toxic. They can also spit so be aware of this if you remove them from your tank. There have been cases of people becoming very sick when they boiled rocks with them on and inhailed some of the fumes. They can also irriate your skin. I had a kind before that gave me a rash all over my hands. Always wash your hands if handling them and make sure you dont wipe you face with hands if they are not washed.
     
  11. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    I'll ask this question here to avoid starting another thread.
    Sudden death of a tubeworm. Was fine last night, came home tea time and noticed straight away it was limp. Used my long planting tong to test for any signs of life, sadly nothing and the whole worm came away from the tube. Now, with the advice about polyps being toxic, are they also toxic to other tank occupants?? I've been trying the polyp rock in various locations, was very close to the deceased.......
     
  12. 372xp

    372xp Registered

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    The tube worm is a filter feeder like the polyps. The polyps are toxic as a defense mechanism, they are not employing this tactic aggressively. The worm won't have attacked the polyps so it wouldn't have been poisoned by them.
    Find a spot for them and leave them alone, corals react badly to change. Once settled they should flourish.
     
  13. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks Chromis. Had a full test done at lfs today whilst at work. Ph low, only 8 and magnesium low as well, 950. Didn't have a mag test kit, have now and magnesium to dose which I understand should bring the ph up, if not I'll be buffering it.
    Got home tonight to find my other feather duster looking pretty sorry for itself, not quite sure what is going on to be honest.
     
  14. 372xp

    372xp Registered

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    8.3 seems to be the sweet spot for SPS, however it's not vital. My tank runs at a Ph of 8 and my sps growth is rapid. The few soft corals I own I have to constantly cut back and bin. magnesium binds up carbonate, it allows for more carbonate in the water than if magnesium were not there. An appropriately high magnesium level allows for the addition of calcium without the associated drop in alkalinity. Green polyps don't really take much in the way of calcium/ carbonate out of the water however this is not a reason for you not to have the correct levels.
    BTW it's 372xp not chromis, that is just my post count rank.
     
  15. 372xp

    372xp Registered

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    8.3 seems to be the sweet spot for SPS, however it's not vital. My tank runs at a Ph of 8 and my sps growth is rapid. The few soft corals I own I have to constantly cut back and bin. magnesium binds up carbonate, it allows for more carbonate in the water than if magnesium were not there. An appropriately high magnesium level allows for the addition of calcium without the associated drop in alkalinity. Green polyps don't really take much in the way of calcium/ carbonate out of the water however this is not a reason for you not to have the correct levels.
    BTW it's 372xp not chromis, that is just my post count rank.
     
  16. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Apologies, 372 xp, I'll look more closely next time
     
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