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Featured Cyano And Confusion

Discussion in 'Help and Advice' started by damo666, Oct 18, 2017.

  1. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Ok. Following on from my previous post some developments.
    Lots of red slime on my sand, which from reading is the bi-product of the bacterial action of cyano bacteria.
    I'm scooping it out with a net, rinsing the sand thoroughly until its all washed away before returning it.
    Phosphates have now dropped right back again, and curiously the skimmate has lightened considerably from it's previously near black colour to light brown, which would suggest less organics? So, if the cyano bacteria seems to be increasing judging from the red slime, why are other parameters showing improvement? Also, on a good note, the pearling is decreasing since dropping back on the light intensity. I can see gases being released when I gently stir the sand which I'm presuming is nitrogen? So, my confusion is how best to rid my tank of it. I have read about shop bought preparations, and the impact the die off can have, same thing with erythromycin, which attacks the bacteria but also destroys beneficial bacteria, all impacting negatively overall.
    I'd like anyone who has first hand experience of cyano to share that, and if possible give some guidance on how best to firstly get it under control, and then eradicate it. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. doug_amanda

    doug_amanda Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm sure you've googled it and had an array of scientific reasons for it and just as many ways to eradicate it, leaving nothing but confusion.


    IMO By far the best way to get rid is to leave it alone and unless its smothering corals just remove what you can when you do your weekly water change and let it burn itself out naturally.
     
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  3. Mr Dave

    Mr Dave Registered

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    Cyano Bacteria is generally caused by an imbalance and very low N03-P04 ratio. It does not burn itself out IMO it is best treated by getting N03-P04 into sync and at a detectable level.

    I try to run N03 at 2ppm and P04 at 0.8ppm and I did say try lol.
     
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  4. Afonso

    Afonso Registered

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    I did had this in the past on my nano tried almost everything on the web in the end I've won wend I tried mycosidol cost me a tenner and removed the problem in a few days did try a different one before but it did nothing to the tank. With mycosidol I could see the cyano going and in fact it disappeared in a matter of days and never came back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  5. Afonso

    Afonso Registered

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    If you interested in having a go maiden aquatics normally has it in store.

    [​IMG]

    Or if you live up north you can take mine only used one pill of the 20


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thank you all.
    For the first time since going salty I looked at my DT coming in from work, shook my head and walked away......I actually couldn't face it. I normally love doing anything that's needed, normally overkill not leaving anything. As my wife says I spend more time messing with the tank than, well, enough said.
    Alfonso, thanks. Where is up north? As much as anything be good to put a face to the name
     
  7. Mr Dave

    Mr Dave Registered

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    This hobby can get you down from time to time but keep at it the rewards far out way the pitfalls.

    There are products on the market that can and will remove Cynobacteria. That being said it will not remove the cause of the bloom. If you do use it then ensure you have plenty of C02 going into the water column as it will drop your pH. This is normally done by running the skimmer with no cap on.
    Like I said previously I would check then double check your N03-P04 ratio and maintain them at a healthy level. Cynobacteria consumes dissolved nutrients in the water column and is more likely to thrive when there is a lack of algae's that would normally consume them.
     
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  8. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Well, have 50ltrs of sw ready to go today, after a thorough clean. I'll post all parameters here beforehand.
    Only coral acting odd is my mushroom that hasn't shown itself for a few days. As for algae, I've not had a problem with any strangely enough, even in the sump which is lit 14hrs a day.
     
  9. Mr Dave

    Mr Dave Registered

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    Ok, mushrooms are renowned for sulking and can do for a good few days. Have you altered the flow or repositioned it < maybe changed your lighting ?
    Why do you run your fuge light for 24hrs ? I do not run chaeto only nopox but in the past I have and always reversed the lighting with the main DT light, so DT light on fuge light off and DT light off fuge light on.
     
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  10. Afonso

    Afonso Registered

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    Oldham area manchester pal, if you close by just pop in


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  11. Afonso

    Afonso Registered

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    Dave's right I only use it as I did try everything else first and a lot of water agitation will help the lack of co2 too like Dave said protein skimmer and a wavemaker near the surface will help.

    If you decide to go this route do it but after just keep an eye on how much you feeding being a relatively small system I know how hard is to export nutrients fast enough probably worth looking in to carbon dosing to keep the no3 stable and some media like ceramic rubble to help on to get rid of amônia faster. Out of curiosity what kind of rock do you have in your tank?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  12. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Sorry Mr Dave, should have put toadstool lol, mushrooms are fine.
    I'll try and briefly outline my system. 350 ltrs plus sump. Live rock from previous tank went in September with a small amount came with this upgrade which was running when I got it. Return, around 2000lph gives good surface ripple, twin wavemakers, one each end, pointing downwards to centre. Dropping into sump first is 3" sponge, cleaned 3x weekly in tap water then ro. Then 2 chambers of alpha grog flowing over onto 12" x 4" x 6" floss to remove fine particles, below which is 4" of denitrate media. Large chamber has live rock plus pump for reactor (currently phosguard) then into final chamber housing skimmer and return pump also tmc reef fill auto top up. I tend to leave the very small clip on led on to make viewing skimmer and sump easier.
     
  13. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Parameters as of 3pm:
    Salinity 1.025
    Ph 7.7
    Kh 9.3
    Cal 350
    Mag 1320
    Nitrates 12
    Phosphate less than 0.01
    Off to clean, clean, and clean some more!
     
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  14. Afonso

    Afonso Registered

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    Hi bud am really sorry but I've just used the bottle that I've promised you, red slime spreading in sump got P**** off and dump it in the tank


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  15. Mike and Clare

    Mike and Clare Registered

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    I'm with @doug_amanda on this one.
    Leave it alone, it'll burn itself out (probably)
    It's always hard to give advice when your not stood in front of the tank.
    Problem 1 is, are you adding more of the stuff that's feeding the cyanobacteria by doing water changes. Sounds daft, but if like me you have high silica readings in your tap water, your just adding more food for it by adding fresh SW. The RO system doesn't remove everything!
    Problem 2, Stirring up/ cleaning sand looks ok in the short term, but....your also disturbing/ killing the good algae/bacteria that will win out in the end if left alone.

    It's a nightmare problem that we've all had and have solved in different ways.
    I'm not knocking anybody else advice, but it will pass in time.
    So, my advice, knock the lights back even more, if you can just use the blue spectrum. Feed very little, but don't harm your livestock, frozen is a good choice, little waste and it's mostly water anyway.
    And try and leave things alone. It's soul destroying to see you tank in such a mess, but it WILL pass.
    Try becoming a monk, it teaches you patience, apparently:)
    Mike
     
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  16. Mr Dave

    Mr Dave Registered

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    Sorry guys I will bow out of this thread as I totally disagree with the statement "it will burn its self out"
    As in its name it is a bacteria not an algae. It is a photosynthetic and as it is a bacteria it can produce its own food source so therefore it will not burn its self out.

    Please can a mod remove my comments on this thread.
     
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  17. steve861uk

    steve861uk Registered

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    Good job we all like a challenge (or are more likely suckers for punishment :confused:), else more of us would just walk away from this hobby.

    Is time to step back, assess the situation and find and implement a solution :) I agree with @Mr Dave, letting it burn out is not an option. When I've had Cyano - reducing the lights, directing the flow and syphoning it out with a turkey baster worked for me (admittedly I was lucky and did not have too much of it to deal with).

    Good luck.....you can and will beat this :coleman:
     
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  18. Mike and Clare

    Mike and Clare Registered

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    Nothing wrong with disagreeing. Your comments are as worthwhile as anyone elses.
    That's the whole point of a forum, loads of different ideas from across the hobby.
    I would prefer your comments to stay on this thread, as it is up to the OP as to what advice to follow.
    Mike
     
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  19. steve861uk

    steve861uk Registered

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    I often love to agree to disagree :confused::):risas3: If we all agreed (all of the time), then life and this forum would be very dull and boring indeed.
     
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  20. damo666

    damo666 Registered

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    Thanks for all posts and advice. Everyone's opinion and advice is as valid as the next person...... I asked for these, now it's down to me to decide which to take on board and which to overlook, gaining experience along the way. As everyone's tank is a unique biotope there is never going to be a definitive answer, we can only try different solutions that have worked for others.