Right then...

Here is the complete How To Guide on wiring up an ATC-800!

Firstly a disclaimer. Solely to cover my a*se:

This involves electricity and wiring. Only attempt this at your own risk. If your are unsure about any of the work, then please find someone competant to do it for you. The author and this forum will accept no responsibility for any personal injury/damage of any kind caused by following this guide.

So if you solder your fingers or set fire to the cat - don't blame me!

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0086.jpg[/IMG]

Equipment:

1) Extension Socket for heater (or directly wired to heater)
2) Extension Socket for fans (or directly wired to fans)
3) The mains supply from your plug to the ATC itself.
4) The ATC's probe.

So here's an overall pic of what you are aiming to achieve:

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0074.jpg[/IMG]

Now I have wired mine to two double extension sockets. This is so I can have up to 2 heaters and 2 fans. It is the best option, rather than wiring the fans and heaters directly to the ATC. If you wire directly, then when a heater breaks for example (which they will, as we all know-no matter how much you pay for them-they are all crap), you will have to fiddle about to disconnect it and then re-connect the new one-nightmare!

With me so far?

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0079.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0083.jpg[/IMG]

You will notice that I have labelled each as "HEAT" & "FAN". So do the same before you start the wiring-trust me...you will thank me later. This is because if you don't then I guarantee, at some point in the future, you will have to trace the leads back to figure out which is which. Obviously your doing all this whilst underneath the tank, in a dark cabinet and trying desperately not to go head first into your sump! Of course this situation is helped immensely by the fact that at the same time your wife/hubby/kids/dog/budgie/hamster (or all of the above), will be laughing at your frantic struggling and swearing.


Also, do the same for the power lead:

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0087.jpg[/IMG]

Before you ask, no I'm not this anal with every electrical item in my house. Never label your TV/DVD/SKY/PHONE/WII/LAPTOP/NINTENDO DS Charger plugs that go into an extension bar that your wife has lovingly crammed behind the huge ass CRT TV. This is as its so much fun when a fuse blows, and you get to play the "Hunt The Plug" game amongst dustbunnies the size of cats, old sweets and bits of Lego long since forgotten.

OK....the back of your ATC looks like this:

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/ATC-1b.jpg[/IMG]

So from left to right, the connections are numbered 1-9, like so:

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/ATC2b.jpg[/IMG]


They are connected as follows:


Extension Socket for heater/s:

LIVE cable (brown coloured one): Connected into clamp No. 2 on back of ATC
Neutral (Blue), leave this for now-will get to this in a sec.
Earth (Yellow/Green striped), Leave this for now, will get to it in a sec.


Extension Socket for Fan/s:

LIVE cable (brown coloured one): Connected into clamp No. 4 on back of ATC
Neutral (Blue), leave this for now-will get to this in a sec.
Earth (Yellow/Green striped), Leave this for now, will get to it in a sec.


Mains Supply to ATC:

LIVE cable (brown coloured one): Connected into a chock block and in the other end put 3 short lengths of cable (so you have one live turning into 3 separate ones if you see what I mean).

One live goes to clamp No.1, one to No.9 and one to No.3

Neutral (Blue), leave this for now-will get to this in a sec.
Earth (Yellow/Green striped), Leave this for now, will get to it in a sec.


Now you should be left with a 3 neutral and 3 earth cables not connected. Simply connect the neutrals together with a chock block,solder or crimp-whichever you prefer. As you did the live for the power, but this time you need just one short length of cable on the other side (3 to 1 if u get me). Then this sole Neutral cable goes to clamp No.8.


The earths from the heater and fan extension get connected to the power leads earth, via chock block,chrimp,solder etc-whatever you prefer.

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0088.jpg[/IMG]

Lastly is the probe itself. Mine had a red and white cable on it, White went to clamp No.6 & Red went to clamp No.7.

A quick note on the probe. Usually they are kept in the sump. But some may have to have then in their tank-as I did for a short while. Now....the black Long Spined Sea Urchin....it eats algae apparently-but not exclusively! See below:

[IMG]http://**********************/uploader/2011Q2/Photo0095.jpg[/IMG]

How did I find out this happened? Well early hours of the morning.....really loud beeping from ATC and "HHH" displayed on the LCD display. The "HHH" signifies an "Over Temperature" warning! Cue frantic checking with thermometer,swearing,head scratching,yawning,google searching etc etc.


So if its going in your tank, and you have an urchin or even tangs, then I'd suggest the following:

1) Get a length of reef safe pipe just wide enough for the temp probe to fit through (e.g. 16mm or smaller) and long enough to cover all the length thatwil be in the water. Drill loads of holes in this pipe (5mm drill bit is plenty big enough) -you can't have too many-go nuts!.

2) Seal one end of the pipe with milliput or other 2 part reef safe epoxy or even silicone sealant-you don't need much-just enough to block the end.

3) Allow it to harden.

4) Feed probe into open end until it reaches the blocked end of pipe. The attach the pipe to the side of your tank with suckers/milliput/an old pump magnet/pipe brackets etc.

5) Give a big evil laugh at your urchin in the satifaction of thwarting his plans.


Ye Old Resistor Thingamejig Wotsit:

Now some users have reported that electrical interference from lighting systems, have affected their temperature sensor readings. This causes it to fluctuate wildly. I have had mine with halides and T5's but didnt have any probs-I think its more of an issue with some T5 ballasts-due to frequency issues. You should just wire it all up and see first.

If you do have any probs, then its a simple fix. Simply go to Maplins or some other electrical suppliers and get a "250Volt AC 10nf capacitor". Then simply connect it between the temp sensor clamps (No.6 & 7).

Thats it, jobs a good un.

Seems complicated-but it isnt-honest. If all else fails-pm me.

Also, if any reefers notice any typo's, errors, omissions or want something clarifying further-then please notify me by pm and I'll amend this as necessary.

Regards


Matt